Thawing Frozen Pipes Safely: What Homeowners Should and Shouldn’t Do
It’s December in Southwest Virginia, the temps are dropping fast, and the phones at Skiwi are already ringing.
We’ve had four calls this week alone from homeowners dealing with frozen or burst pipes – some inside the house, some in crawlspaces, and some underground. Every single person said some version of:
“We don’t know what we’re supposed to do right now… and we really don’t want this to get worse.”
A quick reality check on how fast pipes can actually freeze:
- When outdoor temps drop into the low 20s°F or below, uninsulated pipes in unheated spaces (crawlspaces, garages, exterior walls) can start to freeze in as little as 2–3 hours.
- If those temps stay that low for 6–8 hours or more, the risk of a fully frozen or burst pipe goes way up.
- Warmer indoor spaces and well-insulated lines last longer, but the “weak spots” – drafty areas, outside walls, shallow runs – are usually the first to go.
So if we’re heading into a long, bitterly cold night and your house has any of those weak spots, you’re very much in the danger zone.
This article will walk you through what to do – and what NOT to do – when your pipes freeze, whether they’re in the house, in a crawlspace, or part of the underground line heading out to the street or septic.
“How Do I Know If My Pipes Are Frozen?”
Here are the most common signs we see when we show up to a home:
- No water or very little water coming from one faucet (or several) when it’s below freezing
- Weird sputtering when you open a tap
- Toilet that won’t refill after flushing
- Bulging, frosty, or icy-looking pipe in an exposed area (crawlspace, garage, under a sink)
- Cold wall or floor section where you know plumbing runs
If you turn on a faucet and nothing comes out, that does not automatically mean a main break. It might be that the pipe between that faucet and the rest of the system is frozen.
The sooner you act, the better your chances of thawing the pipe before it bursts.
Step 1: Turn Off Water If You Suspect a Burst
If you see water already leaking, hear hissing, or spot a split pipe, go straight to this step:
- Shut off the main water supply to the house.
- Open a faucet on the lowest level (like a basement sink or tub) to relieve pressure.
- Turn off power to any area where water is coming near electrical outlets or wiring.
Once a pipe has burst, this is no longer a “wait and see” situation. You need the water stopped to prevent additional damage.
If you don’t know where your main shutoff is, that’s something to fix before the next cold snap. (We say this a lot in winter service calls.)

Step 2: Figure Out Where the Freeze Probably Is
Before you start dragging out space heaters, it helps to narrow down the location.
Ask yourself:
- Is it just one fixture?
- Likely a frozen pipe near that sink, tub, or toilet.
- Is it one side of the house?
- Could be a pipe in a crawlspace, exterior wall, or unheated area feeding that side.
- Is it the whole house?
- Could be where the main line comes into the house, a section in the crawlspace, or in some cases, an underground line that’s shallow or exposed near a foundation
.
If we’re talking about underground pipes or the main line feeding your house, that’s where it starts to make more sense to call a pro instead of experimenting.
Step 3: Thaw Exposed Pipes Safely (What You Should Do)
For pipes you can see and reach – under sinks, in unfinished basements, or in crawlspaces – here are safe ways to try thawing:
- Open the affected faucet slightly.
A small trickle gives melted water somewhere to go and relieves pressure. - Use gentle, steady heat:
- Hair dryer
- Space heater pointed near (not touching) the pipe
- Heat lamp at a safe distance
- Warm towels wrapped around the pipe
- Start closer to the faucet, then work your way back along the pipe.
This lets melting water move out instead of getting trapped. - Keep everything away from flammable materials.
No stacks of cardboard right next to a heater. No heater sitting in a puddle.
Give it time. You’re often dealing with metal and very cold air; it’s not going to thaw in 30 seconds.

What You Should NOT Do (This Is Where People Get in Trouble)
Let’s be blunt: a lot of the severe damage we see in winter comes from homeowners trying to “save money” with risky methods.
Please don’t do these:
- ❌ Do NOT use an open flame – no torches, lighters, propane heaters, or anything that looks like it belongs in a metal shop.
- We see burned joists, melted pipes, scorched insulation, and near-miss house fires because of this.
- ❌ Do NOT use a space heater inside a crawlspace or enclosed area without extreme caution.
- Heaters can tip, overheat, or ignite nearby materials. If you can’t see it, don’t leave it running.
- ❌ Do NOT turn water pressure up “to force it through.”
- Extra pressure behind ice is exactly what turns a frozen pipe into a burst pipe.
- ❌ Do NOT pound on the pipe with tools.
- Hitting a frozen, brittle pipe is a great way to crack it.
If you’re down to “I might try this crazy thing I saw on YouTube,” that’s a sign it’s time to pick up the phone.
What About Frozen Underground Pipes?
This is where Skiwi’s world and your world meet.
Most of the time, buried water and sewer lines are deep enough in Southwest Virginia that they don’t freeze solid in a typical winter. But they can get into trouble when:
- The line is too shallow
- There’s a low spot or sag that holds water
- There’s a break or crack that lets cold air in
- The section is close to a foundation, crawlspace vent, or uninsulated area
Signs your problem might be in the underground section or main:
- Whole house suddenly loses water during a cold snap
- You have frost or heaving right over the path of the service line
- Inside fixtures and visible pipes look fine, but nothing is flowing
For underground lines, you do not want to start randomly digging or blasting heat into the ground. That’s where camera inspections, line locating, and proper equipment come in.
When Is It Time to Call a Professional?
Here’s a simple rule:
If you can’t see the pipe, can’t reach it safely, or water is already leaking – call.
Specifically, call a pro when:
- You don’t know where the freeze is, and basic checks haven’t found it
- You’ve lost water to most or all of the house
- You suspect the main line or underground service is involved
- A pipe has already burst, even if it seems “small”
- You’re not comfortable using electrical heaters near water or tight spaces
In those situations, a trained tech can:
- Locate the problem accurately
- Thaw lines without destroying them
- Repair or replace damaged sections
- Check for additional weak spots before they fail

How to Reduce the Odds This Happens Again
Once you’ve lived through one night of no water and the fear of pipes bursting, you usually only need to experience it once.
Here are practical steps that make a real difference:
1. Insulate Exposed Pipes
- Crawlspace lines
- Pipes in unheated basements or garages
- Lines running along exterior walls
Simple foam pipe insulation is cheap and effective.
2. Seal Drafts
Cold air blowing on a pipe will freeze it faster than a lower, steady temperature.
- Seal around crawlspace vents, rim joists, and hose bib penetrations.
- Check gaps where pipes go through walls and floors.
3. Keep a Little Heat Where Pipes Run
- Don’t let rooms with plumbing drop below freezing.
- On extremely cold nights, open cabinet doors under sinks along exterior walls.
4. Use a “Drip” Strategically
On the coldest nights, let a small trickle of water run from a faucet farthest away from where the water enters the house. Moving water is harder to freeze than still water.
5. Know Your Shutoffs
Every homeowner should know:
- Where the main shutoff is
- How to shut off individual fixtures (toilets, sinks, washing machine)
This one habit alone can save you thousands if a pipe does burst.
The Bottom Line: Don’t Wait for a Freeze to Become a Flood
December is just the start of our real winter. If we’re already seeing freezes and burst pipes in Southwest Virginia, more are coming.
You don’t have to panic every time the forecast drops below 20°F – but you do need a plan:
- Know where your shutoff is
- Protect exposed pipes
- Use safe heat, not open flame
- Call in a pro when the problem is hidden, underground, or already leaking
If you’re looking at a frozen line now, or you’d rather get ahead of it with an inspection of older, exposed, or shallow piping, that’s exactly the sort of problem Skiwi deals with every winter.
We can’t change the temperature outside, but we can absolutely help you keep those pipes from turning a cold snap into a soaked house and a ruined holiday!
If you live is Southwest Virginia, give Skiwi a call this winter season at (540) 762-1020.




